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// JUNE 2018
The raw diamond of Kefalonia
Athens
Patras
Sami
Lepeda
Lixouri
Paralia Petani
Porto Athera
Agia Thekli
Rifi
Chavdata
Chavriata
Mantzavinata
Lixouri
Lixouri
Lepeda
Argostolion
Lixouri
Kaminarata
Moni Iperagias Theotokou Kipoureon
Lepeda
Megas Lakkos
Paralia Petani
Platia Ammos
Skinos Chavriata
Kounopetra
Xi Beach
Lixouri
Lepeda
Atheras
Amidi Beach
Fteri Beach
Atheras
Lixouri
Myrtos

Lixouri


14nth of June
Lixouri-Petani Beach-Atheras

We woke up early in the morning, took our breakfast (Kostas had taken care of it) and then, since we wanted to have an idea about the other guesthouses too, so as to be able to recommend an alternative accommodation for guests, in case the Villa Alexandros was not vacant, we asked our host if it would be possible to spend the rest of our evenings in Paliki, in one of the other villas of the complex, with views to the sea from above, this time.

He gladly accepted, since we weren’t yet in absolute pick season and we could still have a free choice. So, we moved our luggage to an equally wonderful house, which also had its own character.
Three very nice bedrooms, one of them Queen size and very stylish, dining room with a big round table, lovely veranda/balcony, fully equipped kitchen, large bathroom and wc too.
The house was surrounded by fruit trees, had an aura of coziness and all its rooms were functional and very comfortable.
 


After having chosen bedrooms and settled, 
 


we decided to pay a first visit to Lixouri and also to buy a map of Paliki, so as to explore it.

We also tried to learn a few things about the history of Lixouri in general, before walking down its port and roads.
As things developed though, later on, we would meet during our staying in Kefalonia exceptional people, who would give us much more interesting historic and cultural information for this little cradle of civilization, which truly is a real jewel of the Ionian Islands.


Lixouri and Argostoli: A long lasting “rivalry”

Truth be told, Lixouri will always provoke admiration, since it is extremely impressive the great number of intellectuals, important figures of the Greek Orthodox Church, artists, politicians, scientists and academic figures that it has produced, comparatively with its historically scarce population.

Only a few hundred meters to the south of the ancient city Pali_which is mentioned by Herodotus and Pafsanias and was traditional naval ally of ancient Corinth and also land of continuous agricultural production since antiquity_ was established by residential relocation the town of Lixouri. It is first mentioned historically in a Venetian document in 1534.
 


Since 16nth century the town takes characteristics of organized society and becomes center of merchant shipping and also center of intellectual life, due to its continuously increasing communication with other European cultural centers, especially with the ones in the nearby Italy.  

At around 1800 Lixouri was the largest and most important administrative center of Kefalonia with trade, shipping and very rich spiritual and social life too.
The political decision for administrative upgrading of the small and insignificant then Argostoli became the starting point of the great conflict between the inhabitants of Paliki and the successive Venetian, French and British administrations of the island over the years, but it mainly created rivalry and hatred between the inhabitants of the two towns.
 


In 1758, when it was decided formally the transfer of administration from the fort of Agios Georgios to Argostoli, which had just started to become an organized settlement, the inhabitants of Lixouri disagreed  and demanded to be recognized as capital of Kefalonia their town, since it was already a thriving cultural and commercial center with all the advantages a modern town should have, except,perhaps, the lack of a safe enough port, along with the fact that Lixouri was a little isolated from the other parts of the island. Regardless of the disagreement and the reasonable arguments, the decision of the Venetian State was final and irrevocable. 

Argostoli became the new capital and started growing and thriving fast.  

The people of Lixouri who were represented by the old established order (the noble landowners) couldn’t accept the degradation and the neglect by the new financially immerging class of the merchants and the seafarers, which had started thriving in Argostoli and violent episodes were often breaking out.
 


In 1799 (during French Domination) it was decided to be established in Lixouri a Court of first Instance and a Board of Health.
Argostoli did not agree with this.
After several diplomatic episodes and formal letters sent to the Senate of Corfu by representatives of both towns, efforts for negotiation sank and the rivalry reached its apex. In 1808 a ship from Lixouri cannonaded Argostoli.  
Lixouri revolted and the people were ready to turn against the central French administration in Argostoli, at those times.
The administration reacted immediately by sending army to Lixouri.
The people started retreating and the responsible for the revolt were arrested.
When they were about to be brought to the Court of Law, the trial was cancelled, since the island passed to new conquerors (British).  
The bloody episodes and the political unrest became problems of the young, then, politician Ioannis Kapodistrias, when he was assigned (in his very first mission) by the British to find a solution and give an end to the disturbing situation.
Kapodistrias managed to suppress the riots with iron will and executions of rebels. Another revolt broke in 1848 against the British and new persecutions and hangings followed.
 


In 1864 the Ionian State (The United States of the Ionian Islands under British “protection”) was united with the kingdom of Greece and capital of the Prefecture of Kefalonia became finally the town of Argostoli.

In 1867 and 1953 Lixouri was totally destroyed by earthquakes.

After the earthquakes of 1953, a major wave of immigration followed and the development of the area subsided but never really stopped completely.
The historic buildings which remained standing are samples of a thriving, full of culture, town of the 18nth and 19nth century.

Having learnt all these useful information about the historic and beautiful Lixouri, we walked down the port for photos and videos.

The thing which immediately attracted our attention was the impressive bronze statue of the significant satirical poet Andreas Laskaratos (from Lixouri), which was created by the sculptor Thanasis Apartis in 1961.
 


Andreas Laskaratos is mainly known for his vitriolic, satirical poets, which today are recognized as representative sample of this kind of writing, and also for his untamed spirit. Laskaratos lived his life in style and he was an authentic man of Lixuri.
But, his mockery and criticism about all the unfair things he could spot with his brilliant brain and his raw honesty provoked the rage of the Church, which punished him with the Anathema.
He is mentioned as one of the most intelligent “Lixouriotes” (men from Lixouri) and as one of the most significant poets of the Modern Greek Literature.
The great poet was born in Lixouri in 1811 and died in Argostoli in 1901.

The fact that his statue is situated in such an awkward direction (He is facing Lixouri with his back turned to Argostoli) expresses clearly the “eternal rivalry” between the two most important towns of the island. 

We walked the busy port_ it is full of cozy bars and nice restaurants_and took photos and videos of the ferry, which carries daily and often enough people from Lixouri to Argostoli and the opposite.  

We visited the central square, which faces the port. It is filled with bars and cafés and nice patisseries too, which sell traditional sweets of Kefalonia.  The roads around the square are mainly filled with shops which sell touristic souvenirs, but we also spotted many commercial shops and drugstores.
 


We liked this first picture of Lixouri and its port, but we would discover its nocturnal allurement later on, when we would visit it again for our dinner.

Country: Greece
Date: 2018
Route: Kefalonia-Peninsula of Paliki
Cities: Athens, Patras, Sami, Lepeda, Lixouri, Paralia Petani, Porto Athera, Agia Thekli, Rifi, Chavdata, Chavriata, Mantzavinata, Lixouri, Lixouri, Lepeda, Argostolion, Lixouri, Kaminarata, Moni Iperagias Theotokou Kipoureon, Lepeda, Megas Lakkos, Paralia Petani, Platia Ammos, Skinos Chavriata , Kounopetra, Xi Beach, Lixouri, Lepeda, Atheras, Amidi Beach, Fteri Beach, Atheras, Lixouri
Duration: 8
Difficulty:
Population:
Rating:
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Country: Greece
Date: 2018
Route: Kefalonia-Peninsula of Paliki
Cities: Athens, Patras, Sami, Lepeda, Lixouri, Paralia Petani, Porto Athera, Agia Thekli, Rifi, Chavdata, Chavriata, Mantzavinata, Lixouri, Lixouri, Lepeda, Argostolion, Lixouri, Kaminarata, Moni Iperagias Theotokou Kipoureon, Lepeda, Megas Lakkos, Paralia Petani, Platia Ammos, Skinos Chavriata , Kounopetra, Xi Beach, Lixouri, Lepeda, Atheras, Amidi Beach, Fteri Beach, Atheras, Lixouri
Duration: 8
Difficulty:
Population:
Rating:
comments
VIEW
Country: Greece
Date: 2018
Route: Kefalonia-Peninsula of Paliki
Cities: Athens, Patras, Sami, Lepeda, Lixouri, Paralia Petani, Porto Athera, Agia Thekli, Rifi, Chavdata, Chavriata, Mantzavinata, Lixouri, Lixouri, Lepeda, Argostolion, Lixouri, Kaminarata, Moni Iperagias Theotokou Kipoureon, Lepeda, Megas Lakkos, Paralia Petani, Platia Ammos, Skinos Chavriata , Kounopetra, Xi Beach, Lixouri, Lepeda, Atheras, Amidi Beach, Fteri Beach, Atheras, Lixouri
Duration: 8 days
Difficulty:
Population:
Rating:
comments
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